Cleopatra and the Rocks – Day 4: Eight Little Piggies Take a Shower

Yep, today was one of our shower days. Though, honestly, we didn’t really need one yet, but the showers at the Lazy Lizard Hostel were just too good to pass up. By now we are so efficient that even after “sleeping in” until 7 AM we still made it out of camp by eight. I told you we’d turn Sarah into a morning person!

Redrock and cool wildflowers in Arches National Park

Redrock and cool wildflowers in Arches National Park

We made a brief stop at the Fiery Furnace, which did not look particularly fiery in the clouds and headed out on a quick hike to the Windows, where we hung out in North Window and watched several elderly photographers attempting suicide by climbing onto that last ledge to get that perfect shot. Sarah did so not look forward to trying out her brand-new wilderness first aid skills. Technically this wasn’t all that wild anyway. We were about a quarter mile from the parking lot. So some poor real EMTs might have come to our rescue pretty quickly – maybe.

In the Window

In the Window

Some comic relief after our photography friends seemed safe again...

Some comic relief after our new photography friends seemed safe again…

Afterwards we went into Moab for showers and supplies.The showers were as awesome as always, and the Starbucks in City Market slower than the guys at Mather Hall.

This little piggy is headed for a shower!

This little piggy is headed for a shower!

After lunch we filled  our water jugs at Maternity Spring (no joke) and drove out to Fisher Towers where we did not get a campsite :-(. Luckily the group campsite at nearby Lower Onion Creek was available and we camped in style: shelter, plenty of space, and a nice campfire as usual. We returned up to Fisher Towers in the afternoon and went on the obligatory trail to the Onion Creek overlook.

Fisher Towers

Fisher Towers

Just a quick group shot before the thunderstorm gets us ...

Just a quick group shot before the thunderstorm gets us …

A couple of guys were climbing one of the towers, and we almost lost Adam who was more than ready to abandon us for his new-found climbing buddies. At the end of the trail dark clouds and thunder made us beat a hasty retreat. We got back to the parking lot staying dry. Those dark clouds were more thunder than real rain.

The thunderstorm that made us run -- for nothing!

The thunder clouds that made us run — for nothing!

In camp, after dinner, we listened to a few campfire talks and had a nice campfire with s’mores and the works.

Sarah burning her s'mores.

(Always) hungry Sarah burning her s’mores.

Keeping up with field notes.

Keeping up with field notes.

back to day 3
onward to day 5

 

Cleopatra and the Rocks – Day 3: Sarah (almost) Turns Into a Morning Person

We got up early – really early – about 90 minutes before sunrise to see Delicate Arch. Despite our early departure we were certainly not the first at the trail head, but we were close.

Hiking up to Delicate Arch

Hiking up to Delicate Arch

Delicate Arch at sunrise. Yep, that little figure in neon green, close to the highest spire is Adam.

Delicate Arch at sunrise. Yep, that little figure in neon green, close to the highest spire is Adam.

We had plenty of light on the slickrock and arrived just as the first rays began to strike the arch. For the very first time I saw Delicate Arch with nobody standing under it, posing and ruining the arch for the rest of us. It was definitely a photographer crowd. After hiking across nearby slickrock we returned back to camp for a lazy breakfast of pancakes. Later that day we headed out on to see the arches of Devil’s Garden. The old “spot the German” game was as entertaining as ever and by the time we reached landscape arch we stopped counting.

Landscape Arch

Landscape Arch

Our group on the fins. Sure glad Adam brought that flag along :-). I forgot mine in the office.

Our group on the fins. Sure glad Adam brought that flag along :-). I forgot mine in the office. Adam and Christopher are still goofing off exploring Navajo and Partition Arch.

The fins of Devil's Garden

The fins of Devil’s Garden

We did the entire loop, all the way to Double O Arch, returning via the primitive loop trail. In the evening Sarah, Cassia and Christoph headed back to Broken Arch to capture some star trails. It was a dark warm night, and we spent maybe an hour at the arch taking pictures and trying not to annoy some guy from Indiana too much.

Sunset at the campp ground

Sunset at the camp ground

Broken Arch and star trails.

Broken Arch and star trails.

back to day 2
on to day 4

Cleopatra and the Rocks – Day 2: Mike L. shows us the Dinosaurs of Cleveland-Lloyd

Today we head into Price where we stock up on some food items we forgot to buy yesterday and meet Mike, a geologist working for the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Mike agreed to take us to the famous Cleveland Lloyd dinosaur quarry.

Price Canyon

Price Canyon

Our first stop is in Price canyon, were we admire some thin coal seams and read up on the local mining history (including famous coal mine disasters).

Lauren pointing out a coal seam in Price Canyon

Lauren pointing out a coal seam in Price Canyon

The dinosaur quarry is a few miles south of Price and on our way out to the bones Mike explains the local geology to us. We are looking at old stream terraces and plenty of pumpjacks. These pumps don’t pump oil but remove water from the top of a coal bed so methane has an easier time to escape and can be collected as natural gas. The dirty water …  gets injected back into the ground elsewhere.

Mike telling us about the local geology.

Mike telling us about the local geology.

At Cleveland-Lloyd Mike tells us that most fossil bones come from predatory dinosaurs, they are all single bones – no complete skeletons, and thanks to  decades of relatively poor excavating techniques it is really hard what got all these bones into such a tight space.

In the Cleveland-Lloyd visitor center

In the Cleveland-Lloyd visitor center

We look at one of the excavation sheds before we go on a nice hike through the Morrison formation. Mike points out fossilized clam beds, plenty of dinosaur footprints, hoodoos, fossil remnants, the relics of uranium prospecting and plenty of other stuff. We planned on having lunch at the quarry, but some dark thunderclouds and a return trip over dirt roads makes us leave early. We end up having our sandwiches in a gas station parking lot in nearby Wellington.

Who would have thought tthat rocks can be sooo cool - right, Joan MORRISON?

Who would have thought that rocks can be sooo cool – right, Joan MORRISON?

Wh says it never rains in the desert - look at those clouds (and the great gravels!)

Who says it never rains in the desert – look at those clouds (and the great gravels!)

Back in the van - off to Arches National Park. Now, where did all the guys go? They must be napping.

Back in the van – off to Arches National Park. Now, where did all the guys go? They must be napping.

Soon we are on our way to Arches National Park, where we set up tents and head out for a little pre-dinner hike along the broken arch trail.The group quickly splits up into a slowpoke photographer group and a fast-paced explorer’s group. The slowpokes take amazing pictures and drive hungry Sarah almost to despair as there is yet one more clump of sagebrush to photograph. The explorers return to camp early and cook us a delicious dinner.

Window arch

Tapestry Arch

Sandstone fins outside the campground. Two minutes as the crow flies, almost an hour as the Cassia photographs. :-)

Sandstone fins outside the campground. Two minutes as the crow flies, almost an hour as the Cassia photographs. :-)

Updating the field notebook in camp.

Updating the field notebook in camp.

Moonset over Devil's Garden

Moonset over Devil’s Garden

back to day 1
onward to day 3

 

Cleopatra and the Rocks – Day 1: To Price Canyon

Yes, it’s  been a while since we returned from this summer’s trip to Utah, but the weeks since our return have been a bit busy, and only now do I really have the time to put the blog posts together.

We left Hartford at the crack of dawn, well actually BEFORE the crack of dawn, and headed out to Salt Lake City where we picked up Allen, our (at this point still shiny, white) home for the next ten days. Heading southwest, towards Price, we stopped just long enough to pick up the best buy of the trip: Kong Corn.

Kong Corn - how could we ever live without you?

Kong Corn – how could we ever live without you?

Initially ridiculed by many, it turned out to be the perfect popcorn: slightly salty, slightly buttery, but never in excess, and in a bag large enough to last us at least four days. Not bad for a three dollar purchase! Price Canyon Recreation Area was pretty empty, pretty cold and waterless. So Joan and Hadley went back down into the valley to find us some drinking water.

Buckle up for safety! Kong Corn and its friend from the Uinta Brewery awaiting Joan and Hadley's return from Price.

Buckle up for safety! Kong Corn and its friends from the Uinta Brewery awaiting Joan and Hadley’s return from Price.

In the meantime Kong Corn did a pretty good job holding down Allen’s back seat.Soon the crew was setting up tents,, collecting firewood, and exploring the area. Christopher proved to be a man of many talents, and soon we had a nice fire going. Joan and Hadley returned with 10 gallons of water and it was brats for dinner.

Adam and Christopher keeping an eye on dinner.

Adam and Christopher keeping an eye on dinner.

Good things take time but hot chocolate makes it all go faster: Lauren and Hadley waiting for the brats to be done.

Good things take time but hot chocolate makes it all go faster: Lauren and Hadley waiting for the brats to be done.

Dinner took a while and it was pretty late until we all turned into our tents for our first (cold) night in Utah.

Christopher - our master chef!

Christopher – our master chef!

on to day 2

2014 Iceland Pictures

at Alftavatn

at Alftavatn

Just before he went off on his (very well deserved) vacation to Maine and New Hampshire, Christoph managed to get most of his pictures organized and put them on-line.

Go and check them out here.

If you would like to share your pictures – either send them to me (and I’ll turn them into a web gallery) or, even better in this cloud based day and age: add a comment to this post which includes a link to your images._30

Gray is the New Black: Epilogue 4 – back to Höfn and on to Mosfellsbær

Waiting for our super jeep - Illikambur

Waiting for our super jeep – Illikambur

Lutz decides to hitch a ride with us back to Höfn this morning, so we hike back up the steep trail to Illikambur and wait for the super jeep. This time we’re picked up Gulli, who drives a Nissan Pathfinder with gigantic tires. Sissi, our driver on the way in, had a Landrover with pretty big tires, but this monster is actually hard to get into.

View south from Illikambur

View south from Illikambur

Into the river we go!

Into the river we go!

... and (hopefully) out the other side.

… and (hopefully) out the other side.

Big tires make for faster cars :-) and we cruise back to Höfn, where we set up camp in out old spot, in no time. Not much has been happening since we left. Höfn celebrated its annual Lobsterfest, so the campground had quite a few locals with their campers, the town was decked out in orange balloons, and a few drunk people were sobering up on the lawn next to our tent. That was pretty much it.

Not much change in the harbor of Höfn.

Not much change in the harbor of Höfn.

We have lunch at  Kaffihornið (free Wifi and excellent dinner options as well), visit the local pool, where we hang out mostly in the hot pots, and enjoy a lobster roll down by the harbor. Icelandic lobster is OK, but I have to say: Maine lobster is way, way better.

Hafnarbúðin - home of our lobster dinner.

Hafnarbúðin – home of our lobster dinner.

Vatnajökull late at night

Vatnajökull late at night

We have a second dinner with Lutz before heading out for one last stroll through town. The clouds cleared a bit and the light over the glacier was most impressive. The next day we take a taxi to the airport and descend back into the clouds of Reykjavik. With no specific plan we drove out to Hveragerði, but saw Egill, Alex and Sieglinde’s truck parked by the side of the road. They were sitting in a local dive enjoying meat soup, and since it was raining we wasted no time and joined them for a big bowl and unlimited coffee.

Egill parked in front of Littla Kaffistofan - home of excellent meat soup.

Egill parked in front of Littla Kaffistofan – home of excellent meat soup.

After a few hours we head out to Hveragerði, but bad weather and a lousy campground make us return to Reykjavik and on to Mosfellsbær. Here the campground is not much better, but we’ve already set up camp, so we decided to stay. Luckily, the nearby Hotel Laxness has a bar and we spend most of the day watching the World Cup.

Lupines started this bolg, so lupines shall end it... ... sunset in Mosfellsbær .

Lupines started this bolg, so lupines shall end it…
… sunset in Mosfellsbær .

The trip to Ljónsoræfi was a success despite the rain. Trails are steep at the south end, but if one starts in the north and ends near Höfn it should be more than doable. The hike leads through plenty of Arctic terrain and has great views of the glaciers. Our three days felt a lot like the Laugavegur 30 years ago, so we might have a change in venue when we return back to Iceland three years from now.

back to Víðibrekkusker

 

Gray is the New Black: Epilogue 3 – Víðibrekkusker

For the first time in two weeks the weather is really nice. Not just a hint of blue somewhere near the horizon, but real sunshine for most of the day. We are celebrating by climbing Víðibrekkusker, the mountain on the other side of the river.

Waterfall on Kollumúli

Waterfall on Kollumúli

Icelandic killer sheep ambush.

Icelandic killer sheep ambush.

An impressive dike along the way.

An impressive dike along the way.

As expected, the path starts out pretty steep, but zig-zags around the mountain and we gain elevation pretty quickly without too much effort. The views are stunning, and we enjoy the nice weather. Lunch on top of the mountain turns out to be an almost unpleasant, warm affair. It’s a good day to work on our tan.

About halfway up Víðibrekkusker

About halfway up Víðibrekkusker

The peak consisted of rather sharp gravel.

The peak consisted of rather sharp gravel.

On the way down we ran into a herd of reindeer who eyed us suspiciously before disappearing over the next ridge.

Reindeer ambush.

Reindeer ambush.

Jon high above the Múlaskáli hut...

Jon high above the Múlaskáli hut. ..

... and crossing the Öxarfellsá on the wobble hanging bridge.

… and crossing the Öxarfellsá on the wobble hanging bridge.

The evening turned out sunny and warm. Múlaskáli gets its water through a long black pipe from high up in the valley, and the sunshine warmed up the cold water in the pipe. We all enjoyed a free warm shower. Nigel told us about the Egiilssel hut, which is very nice, while Lutz spent the day hiking up the Tröllakrókar. We all had dinner on the deck.

Sheep trails on Kollumúli

Sheep trails on Kollumúli

We enjoyed the sunshine while it lasted. Later that evening clouds came rolling in from the South, making for good photographs, but promising another gray day for tomorrow.

Evening clouds.

Evening clouds.

back to the Tröllakrókar
onwards to Höfn and Reykjavik

Gray is the New Black: Epilogue 2 – Tröllakrókar and Egilssel

on our way to the Tröllakrókar

on our way to the Tröllakrókar

Today’s weather is not bad – not bad at all. The clouds are high, it is not raining and there are a few shreds of blue sky. We head out for a day hike to the Tröllakrókar, a series of impressive hoodoos. While already there we also plan to check out the trail to the Egilssel hut, one of the huts along our planned  Ljónsoræfi. So far the hiking was pretty rough. Trails are faint, maps are bad, and the slopes are steep. We’re trying to figure out whether we can do this hike with our students in three years when we intend to return to Iceland.

the famous Tröllakrókar, gigantic hoodoos that formed in volcanic tuff

the famous Tröllakrókar, gigantic hoodoos that formed in volcanic tuff

Now, let's see, what's for lunch? Dried fish, bítafiskur, more dried fish, ahhh, here we go: chocolate!

Now, let’s see, what’s for lunch? Dried fish, bítafiskur, more dried fish, ahhh, here we go: chocolate!

The ascent is steep, we fist follow the river along a sheep trail before we ascent the scree slopes. With day packs it is not too bad, with students we’d go the other way, so even with big packs it should not be too much of a problem. Around noon we arrive at the Tröllakrókar. Christoph takes pictures, while Jon has lunch.

Nigel, who proved to be quite a character, decided to do an overnight hike to the Egilssel hut. We meet him at the Tröllakrókar and, since he is noot the best navigator in the world, we accompany him across the ridge until the hut is in sight. The mountain tops are still covered in snow and Christoph’s boots get soaked once again.

Nigel and Jon at the Tröllakrókar

Nigel and Jon at the Tröllakrókar

On our way to Egilssel

On our way to Egilssel

Frozen lakes and ...

Frozen lakes and …

... patterned ground on our way to Egilssel. We are definitely in the Arctic!

… patterned ground on our way to Egilssel. We are definitely in the Arctic!

Soon we cross a big snow field from where the path to the hut is obvious. We bif Nigel goodbye and return to our hut at Múlaskáli.

More frozen lakes (in June) and the hut at Egilssel.

More frozen lakes (in June) and the hut at Egilssel.

The evening brings a few new guests to the hut. First we watch a lonely hiker descend the trail from Illikambur. He is slow, and Jon predicts he is a German photographer – no idea where he comes up with that. Well, Lutz is German, but he’s just slow, after spending the last two days hiking in from the ring road.

The first batch of 200 sheep and 580 lambs.

The first batch of 200 sheep and 580 lambs.

The sheep are old hands and have no problem crossing the bridge.

The sheep are old hands and have no problem crossing the bridge.

Next come a bunch of sheep and their shepherds. The sheep get trucked and make their way down the steep trail from Illikambur. We get to talk to the shepherds, who encourage us to use the hut – for free, Iceland is expensive enough …
They also consider an empty flag pole a wasted flag pole, and since they didn’t bring an Icelandic flag …

No empty flag pole no more ...

No empty flag pole no more …

back to our first day at Múlaskáli
onward!

Gray is the New Black: Days 11 and 12 – Reykjavik

Hallgrimskirkja in the rain

Hallgrimskirkja in the rain

Back in Reykjavik we have a full day to buy presents, wool sweaters, watch soccer games (surprisingly Columbia is still in the World Cup) and do laundry. Funny enough, even without a program or schedule we still run into most of our group while they are enjoying the city. It’s a small place after all. Very small indeed, on his way back to the campground Christoph runs into yesterday’s bus driver. Jon Cameron and Christoph catch the early bus into town and head to the Laundromat Cafe for breakfast and doing laundry.

Troll training wheels.

Troll training wheels.

After spending three hours on breakfast, extra coffee, and two loads of laundry Jon helps Sarah and Lauren to find the sweater of their dreams. Otherwise the day passes without any great calamities, disasters or excitement.

Ugly and expensive houses along the seashore.

Ugly and expensive houses along the seashore.

More lupines!

More lupines!

However, on our way to the bakery Jon and Christoph discover two additional hotdog places near the swimming pool and an entirely new dog: Tröllapylsur – Glútenfríar – gluten free troll-sized dogs. Cameron where are you when we need you…

troll dogs - gluten free

troll dogs – gluten free

The dogs were brats in a hot dog bun, with sauerkraut and hot mustard. Not bad, not bad at all. However, Pylsuvagninn í Laugardal still reigns supreme!

We also discovered a slushie brand that is unlikely to make it in the States.

Krap in two colors ...

Krap in two colors …

On our way to the airport we made the obligatory stop at the Blue Lagoon. The water was great, the silica peel did wonders for our skin and Puffling’s diving exercises almost got Cameron and me into trouble. in the locker rooms…

Puffling practicing his diving skills.

Puffling practicing his diving skills.

From the Blue Lagoon Puffling, Cameron and the students headed back to Boston, while Jon and Christoph took a gigantic plane to the town of Höfn, where they endured a few more days in rain and cold to plan our next Iceland trip.

Our jumbo jet to Höfn.

Our jumbo jet to Höfn.

Flying across the gravel spit at Höfn.

Flying across the gravel spit at Höfn. Look at that resuspended sediment on the Atlantic side. You bet you’ll see that slide again in ENVS 112L this fall.

Finally some space in the tent! It's amazing how much space Puffling took up.

Finally some space in the tent! It’s amazing how much room Puffling had taken up all these days.

back to day 10

For more about Christoph and Jon’s trip to the wilds of Ljónsoræfi stay tuned for the epilogue.

Gray is the New Black: Day 10 – back to Reykjavik

Puffins in the Mountain Mall

Puffling in the Mountain Mall

Throughout the hike Cameron brought a stuffed puffin along. Despite sharing a tent with Cameron for the past nine days Christoph hadn’t really noticed – until now. The little guy’s name is Puffling, and let’s just say Puffling’s life turned quite a bit more exciting today when he went on a few photo shoots with our expedition photographer. Too bad Cameron was keeping a close eye on Puffling during our last day in Reykjavik. Just imagine the possibilities…

... staying cool - really cool ...

… staying cool – really cool …

... keeping an eye on Christoph's solar panel ...

… keeping an eye on Christoph’s solar panel …

... Nooooo, puffins - don't jump !

… Nooooo, Puffling – don’t jump !

... inspecting the showers ...

… inspecting the showers …

 

ladies man - oops ladies puffin and ...

Puffling – ladies’ man – oops ladies’ puffin and …

... intrepid explorer

… intrepid explorer

Our bus was expected to pick us up at 3:30, so there was plenty of time for some hikes, exploring the surrounding areas or some more hot spring soaking.

Brennisteinsalda

Lauren and Cassandra on top of Brennisteinsalda

Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar

the Mountain Mall

The Mountain Mall

Well, turns out the bus was supposed to pick us up at noon, so after our hikes, trips to the Mountain Mall, naps etc. we quickly broke camp and off we went, back to Reykjavik. Good ol’ Puffling made sure we didn’t get lost and Lauren enjoyed the numerous stream crossings.

Back to Reykjavik.

Back to Reykjavik.

We did the obligatory photo stop at Hekla, had a few hot dogs and Icelandic chips and arrived in Reykjavik later that evening.

Still no eruption !

Still no eruption !

Back in Reykjavik: Sarah's giving me "the look". Am I in trouble or what?

Back in Reykjavik: Sarah’s giving me “the look”. Am I in trouble or what?

Soon afterwards, most of us head to the English Pub (to watch the World Cup, of course), while Christoph meets his old friends Alex and Sieglinde and does what he does best: talk, talk, talk.

back to day 9
onward to day 11 and 12